I can’t remember exactly when I realised how delicious 2000 burgundies – whites as well as reds – were. When I reported on them en primeur here I flagged them up as likely to offer good value drinking in the short to medium term. But it took the wines a while to come out from the shadow of the 1999s and show just how delightful they could be.
When I started drinking them, perhaps about three or four years ago, I was even more thrilled by their fruity, flattering, super-open charms, all the way up the quality ladder to some...