Despite their late beginnings, both in the vineyard and cellar, Bordeaux’s 2002s are all, except for a handful of grand Sauternes, in bottle and can be judged in a less embryonic state than during my first Bordeaux 2002 tasting notes recorded en primeur in the spring of 2003 and published in detail in last year’s purple pages. I have not, unfortunately, had a chance to re-taste the first growths (unquestionably the stars of this vintage – ‘tis not always so overwhelmingly so) nor some of the other wines whose owners consider they are too grand to take part in Union...