On Monday I went to the Institute of Masters of Wine’s annual burgundy tasting in association with Les Domaines Familiaux de Tradition, a group of some of the more prominent domaines who also exhibit in Paris and elsewhere. Not a single Burgundian was present, and nor was the most prominent MW resident in Burgundy Jasper Morris.
I hope this had nothing to do with their opinion of how the wines would show because alas, truth to tell, this was not a hugely inspiring line-up – rather like the last big MW horizontal tasting, of 2002 bordeaux. Does the...