I have been missing Málaga. This dark, treacly stickie from Scholtz Hermanos was a staple at L’Escargot when Nick was a restaurateur but Scholtz gave up the ghost and my only witting exposure to wine made in this beautiful region on the southern coast of Spain came via the energetic Telmo Rodriguez’ Molino Real, a wine of the week back in Nov 2001. (I too used to be snooty about the Costa del Sol – until I went there for the first time a year ago, and tasted rather a good red wine, Pagoslargos 2002, carrying the new Sierras...