Paul Symington has long railed against what he sees as the underpricing of port. Why shouldn’t the wine to which his family has devoted its professional life not fetch the sort of price levels enjoyed by other, more fashionable wines?
Well, perhaps partly because his partner in a new venture is Berry Bros & Rudd, who are not widely associated with cut-price trading, the Symingtons have successfully launched a port at £700 a bottle. When he gave me a taste of it just before launching it last month, I sensed a certain defensiveness. ‘Mouton 2010 is £650 a bottle', he...