A wine marathon at Can Roca

Nick and I were lucky enough recently to get a table at El Celler de Can Roca, the family-run restaurant in the Girona suburbs that we've been visiting since this first visit in 2005. Reservations have become increasingly difficult – and particularly so since the Roca brothers' establishment was voted Best Restaurant in the World earlier this year in that rather questionable annual international voting fest sponsored by San Pellegrino.

I can honestly say that I love everything about this place, but particularly the fact that the brother of the triumverate who is front of house, Josep, is so...