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All change in southern Chile

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Maximiliano Morales writes from Chile about dramatic increases in grape prices in parts of the long, narrow country. 

Chile’s old-vine wine production is going through dramatic changes. Itata Valley, one of the oldest wine-producing regions in the southern hemisphere with over 500 years of history, is being invaded by traditional Chilean wineries from elsewhere. 

And reputable wineries such as Miguel Torres, De Martino, Clos des Fous and others have been investing millions lately in land and infrastructure in the even more southerly Bío Bío region, looking to deliver still and sparkling wines from historic vines. The initial boom for ‘storytelling’...