In Riscal start to clear out those cellars, I describe how one of Rioja’s oldest companies has plans to sell some of the thousands of ancient bottles that have been languishing in its cellars in the village of Elciego. Below are the tasting notes on the amazing 1900, 1945 and 1964 vintages that are coming up for sale at Christie’s on Thursday, supplemented by notes on the old vintages I tasted while visiting Riscal in 2000 when Victor de la Serna kindly whizzed me around northern Spain to bring me up to date while I was preparing the 5...