When you've been making the same cuvée for 40 years, it is perhaps inevitable that it has won a lot of awards. Even so, the trophy cabinet for Wolf Blass Black Label must be particularly capacious, as various vintages of this wine have won over 300 medals, according to chief winemaker Chris Hatcher (pictured below, in front of a sea of Zalto glassware at 67 Pall Mall).
To prove its worth, ten wines spanning four decades were brought together to taste in London last week. Black Label was first made in 1973, although Wolf Blass started making wine under his...