Thus Brunello di Montalcino is in a unique position, comments the newspaper. On the one hand, the Consorzio of Brunello is no longer allowed to control its production independently, while on the other the Consorzio is now policed (at least from the point of view of the DOCG regulations) by the Comitato di Garanzia, on which Mattivi sits. Furthermore, Mattivi is a consultant technician for Banfi, which is under inquiry for not having followed the rules of the DOCG. Enrico Viglierchio, managing director of Banfi, is reported as commenting: “It is the procurator who should...