There should be some real value in this little collection of the wines carrying the appellations Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur, Côtes de Castillon, Côtes de Francs, Premières Côtes de Bordeaux, Premières Côtes de Blaye, Côtes de Bourg, Fronsac and Canon Fronsac that we managed to taste. There are literally hundreds if not thousands more wines available, many of them desperate for buyers and making increasingly interesting wines, but it is rarely necessary to grab them en primeur – so much the worse for their makers who are finding life very tough at present. An obvious exception to this is Roc de...