Yesterday’s Gatwick–Bordeaux flight seemed to be carrying an even higher proportion of the British fine wine trade than ever. I sat between two representatives of Bordeaux Index, who, apparently, have a team of 21 in Bordeaux this week. I suspect the stand-up, elbows-out, find-a-spittoon trade tastings will be a nightmare this year and feel very grateful for being able to retreat to the seated calm of a journalists’ blind tasting. Thank you, Union des Grands Crus, for all the organisation. Thank you, Michel Bettane, if, as rumoured, it was you who initially requested the opportunity to taste blind.
My first...