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Bordeaux 2009 – St-Estèphe

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See our guide to Bordeaux 2009 coverage.

There were some very successful wines here but, funnily enough, neither of the two most famous were glorious in 2009. Cos may have been trying too hard and Montrose may still be in too much transition. The day before I tasted Montrose, it was announced that the well-heeled new owner had acquired a massive parcel of vines from Phelan Ségur between the building site/château and the main road. Consultant Jean-Bernard Delmas told me that this parcel was part of the estate until the 1860s.

Calon Ségur did a great job and Capbern Gasqueton...