See our guide to Walter's coverage this year of Montalcino. See also earlier articles about this vintage: Brunello 2012 – a five-star dilemma, Brunello 2012 – majesty without mass and Brunello 2012s – first impressions.
Mae West allegedly once said: ‘too much of a good thing can be wonderful’. That would perfectly summarise the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino’s Riservas: formidable concentration, bags of ripe, polished tannins and a long, intense, fruit-driven finish. The fruit is at times so intense that when new oak was used for ageing the wine it is hardly discernible. I am not a fan of...