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Brunello's magnificent 1999s

I will not be publishing my full tasting notes until next month when the wines are finally released but I have to tell you that a recent big horizontal of the 1999s is the single most exciting tasting of Brunello di Montalcino I have ever experienced.

Ultra-purist Italophiles shoot me down if you will, but I have always been a bit agnostic about Brunello. It's been easy to admire, not so easy to enjoy, in my humble experience. But those 1999s are, as one of Little Britain's more florid characters says so often, gorgeous.

There are, as ever, some...