The business of serious rosé

Two rosés, side by side

No longer an afterthought, pink wines are coming into their own, with quality and prices to match. Those two factors may not necessarily correlate, however …

When queen of rosé Elizabeth Gabay MW organises a ‘fine rosé day’ in London, you pay attention. Gabay has her fingers on the pink pulse like no one else, and if anyone can call in bottles of rosé that might be considered ‘fine’, it is she. So, there we were, being poured glasses of Brad Pitt’s Miraval champagne (up to £340 a bottle), Esclans’ Garrus 2022 (up to £120 a bottle), and Gérard Bertrand’s...