Tim Hall shares the latest news from Reims and Épernay and why SOG is so important. Above, the headquarters of Champagne's third-biggest producer, a co-operative.
Current Champagne stories echo London’s famous red-bus quip: you wait in vain and then three come along at once. First, despite the warnings from some producers about shortages this Christmas, especially of the priciest de luxe bottles in the UK, we see the usual supermarket discount offers designed to entice new customers. The Champenois themselves meanwhile, having been depressed by 2020’s 18% slump in global sales, are delighted and not a little surprised that late...