Italy's infatuation with international grape varieties shows no signs of waning. While the majority of wine-producing regions, especially from the New World, have begun to put all their efforts into promoting regionality – emphasising what makes their wines different, while trying to draw attention away from the inevitably French varieties they use – Italy, with its wealth of indigenous grape varieties, seems reluctant to stop flirting with Cabernet Sauvignon & Co. In Italian wine law the French varieties are euphemistically known as 'ameliorating', but in reality they regularly make wine taste uniform, while at the same time sustaining Italy's inferiority...