If there is a Bordeaux vintage this century that has been universally panned, it must be 2013. A quick scan of headlines on the matter is thick with gloom. The words skeletal, rasping, dismal, and disaster pepper the pages of reports. Our own coverage was not exactly encouraging: Christian Moueix predicted disaster particularly for the smaller producers, Jean-Christophe Mau of Ch Brown described it as, 'the most complicated in the last 30 years', and Farr Vintners declared that the Bordeaux wine trade had shot itself in the foot, 'and have released mediocre wines to an uninterested clientele at...