Robert Taramarcaz was not feeling well the first time we met at last year's annual tasting of mature and maturing Swiss wines run by the Mémoire des Vins Suisses and described in Remembering Swiss wines. I didn’t realise this until much later, when we met at a dinner in London organised by Alpine Wines, one of Taramarcaz's UK importers, the dinner at Mossiman's part of a Swiss-based initiative known as La Nuit des Vieux Millésimes that showcases older vintages. So instead of simply tasting the three vintages of excellent Humagne Blanche that he was showing that day last...