During the last few years I have been rather a lone voice raving about the tiny DOCs of Mamertino and Faro. Situated at the far eastern tip of Sicily, Faro overlooks the strait of Messina towards Reggio di Calabria (as my picture shows) while Mamertino, its western neighbour, stretches from the north on the coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea all the way to the south east and the Ionian Sea (see the top right-hand corner of this map of Sicily). Although they don’t produce that much wine, they are both ancient, their viticultural activity going all the way...