Early last month Nigel Greening, the owner of Felton Road, one of Central Otago's most admired producers, presented a run of their latest wines in London. So popular were his sessions that he had to speak three times to a crowded Mary Lou room in the Groucho Club, Soho, and even by the end of the second one looked exhausted. He is someone who doesn't just present a PR spiel but, in my experience, genuinely shares the current preoccupations of the 32-hectare estate based in Bannockburn and is clearly in reflective mode now that the oldest vines are into...