The trouble with Chile for a wine writer is that the talented winemakers are so peripatetic. You think you've just got a grip on who works where, only to find that they have all climbed on to the carousel once more and moved on to another winery and employer. I suspect this is because for the moment so few winemakers have access to much capital of their own so find it difficult to establish their own enterprises and independence. Of the high-profile oenologists, only Alvaro Espinoza, late of Carmen, has really established anything off his own bat, the admirable small...