In the invitation to this tasting, the first ever held in London by the Union des Gens de Métier, the producers described themselves as a ‘group of friends and winemakers, originally founded by the late Didier Dagueneau’, which perhaps explains two things: the eclectic mix of regions and styles and the extremely high standard of the wines, which included such famous names as Clos Rougeard, Roulot, Selosse and others of that ilk.
Most of the members of this group are French but the notable exceptions include Aldo Vajra, Isole e Olena and Dirk Niepoort The name of the group, which...