From an island torpedo store to Mayfair, a pair of foragers' unlikely journey.
The location is not initially that exciting. There is only a sign that says Browns on the corner as one walks down Brook Street in Mayfair, which gives little encouragement to anyone who is hungry or thirsty. But do persist.
Turn sharp left down Avery Row from Brook Street and between the Browns shop (which sells some ridiculously priced trainers inter alia) and the Paul Smith sale shop there is a sign on the right that says Native at Browns. Follow it into what can best be described as a venerable old building and then turn left and you are there in the latest incarnation of an exciting restaurant that is the most recent home of chef Ivan Tisdall-Downes and his business partner Imogen Davis (who quietly confessed to me that she is not only a lifelong Manchester United supporter but also a distant relation of the late Sir Matt Busby).
This couple have run Native in several locations already. It was initially in Covent Garden then in Southwark before last summer, when they ran it as a pop-up on the island of Osea off the Essex coast in a former First World War torpedo store. They have, however, always stuck to the same, heartfelt principles.
These are to offer fresh, seasonal food and to be as sustainable as possible. The two are enthusiastic foragers in their own right and they are very keen to be seen to be doing the right thing. All of this makes their current location here, on a 10-year lease with Far Fetch, the Portuguese owners of Browns, seem initially highly unlikely.
But in this I would like to congratulate whoever it was at Far Fetch who first had the idea of approaching Tisdall-Downes and Davis as well as having the determination to see the negotiations through. Because this restaurant’s setting, admittedly on a lovely sunny day, could not be readily bettered.
While the main room is light and airy, it draws its light from a series of windows which look out over a central courtyard that allows the couple to more than double their seating capacity in an area dominated by a pink cherry-blossom tree. Sitting here is as glorious as it is unexpected but comes with one disadvantage: the courtyard is right next door to Claridge’s hotel, where the builders are hard at work. ‘At 1 pm we knock on their door and ask them to be quiet for the next hour or so. And sometimes they do listen…’, Davis reported.
When I ate there the courtyard was packed with several large tables, full of what looked like extremely happy diners. Native at Browns seems to have struck a highly distinctive note, one that is set by Tisdall-Downes’ thoughtful cooking, which seems to have found its match in the personal and extremely friendly service.
We began with three very different dishes that exemplified the kitchen’s approach and commitment. The first was described as two pieces of fish trim, blitzed into a fish mousse – two rounds of ‘leftovers’ from the trimming of that morning’s fish delivery covered in brown linseed, which were then topped with spiced apple and fried cauliflower leaf (£6). They made for two appetising mouthfuls each and are pictured above.
Then came a dish that cleverly combined two British ingredients – a ceviche of fish from Brixham (pictured at the top of this article) with strips of poached Sussex rhubarb that gave the dish the necessary acidity (£15) topped with furikake, the Japanese condiment that includes seaweed and therefore adds definite saltiness.
But it was the final dish of our first courses that was to steal the show. Described as Alexander buds with a seaweed beurre blanc (£15 and pictured above), this was excellent, its charms perhaps accentuated by the fact that the bowl was brought to our table by Tisdall-Downes himself who described the dish. ‘Alexander buds grow prolifically in hedgerows and particularly at this time of year. You can use the whole plant and, having cooked them, I serve them with a beurre blanc to which I add a touch of parsley honey which is a recipe from the Second World War that combines a touch of sweetness with a hint of acidity.’ With that, he left us and within a few seconds, the dish was no more.
We followed these with three main courses. A wood-pigeon kebab with native harissa and beetroot hummus (£16 and pictured below) came on a piece of warm flatbread, a combination of ingredients that has been a successful part of Tisdall-Downes’ menus since their early days as a pop-up. This came alongside six round slices from a haunch of venison (£25), perfectly cooked but whose flavours were accentuated by its irresistible sauce made from yeasted onions topped with a bone-marrow crumb.
Finally, there was Tisdall-Downes’ interpretation of surf’n’turf, a piece of white hake sitting on top of a dark-green wild-garlic puree, a combination that was given extra piquancy by the presence of some dark-red, almost ominous looking, venison n’duja on the side (£22). My guest and I almost fell out as we fought over the last piece of this spicy accompaniment.
By 3 pm the courtyard had emptied and the sun had vanished so we went inside for a coffee and the last piece of this talented kitchen’s magic. Up came a dish they call ‘marrowmel’ (£12 and pictured below), a piece of bone marrow in which the marrow has been scraped out and lined with a layer of baked rye shortbread. A little is replaced and then a mixture of chocolate ganache, caramel and cream added before it is then blowtorched to brûlée consistency. The journey from the basement kitchen allows it to cool just enough for even the greediest eater to plunge their spoon straight in. Pure delight.
Tisdall-Downes and Davis are both 34, highly talented and equally committed. They spoke of their plans – to continue at Browns and to find another site that is more closely attached to a farm. I can only wish them all the luck in the world.
Native at Browns 39 Brook Street, London W1K 4JE; tel: +44 (0)20 7549 5999. Closed Sunday and Monday.