Great madeira, and 'madeira'

It's crisp and cold in London today, perfect weather for one of my favourite wines, madeira, wonderfully crisp yet warming. I always say it would be my desert island wine because:

• A single open bottle would last longer than any other wine.
• If the island were hot, madeira's naturally high acidity would refresh me.
• If the island were cold, its high alcohol content and rich flavours would keep me warm.

My enthusiasm has been rekindled by tasting current releases from two very different provenances. Barbeito is one of the finest producers on the island of Madeira, favouring varietal purity and...