A roller coaster ride might sum up my experience of tasting nearly a hundred Grüner Veltliners at the Austrian annual tasting in London in February – pretty up and down in terms of style and quality. Adrenalin rushes were few and far between but there were also remarkably few poor wines given the large number of producers who took part. (The wines described below also include another 35 or so tasted blind on a previous occasion at the end of last year.)
The range was also due in part to vintage variation – most of the wines below were from...