Have some madeira

Julia writes Jancis and I both tasted some stunning madeiras in London late last year, Jancis at a Barbeito masterclass organised by their importer and Portuguese specialist Raymond Reynolds and me at a tasting organised by the unusually constituted generic body that oversees the regulation and promotion of madeira: IVBAM, the Madeira Wine, Embroidery and Handicrafts Institute. No handicrafts on show at the tasting but plenty of excellent handiwork.

This photo shows one of Blandy’s vineyards, the Quinta de Santa Luzia property, located in the south of the island and owned by seventh-generation family member Andrew Blandy. The small one-hectare...