How Fourrier makes wine

'Cabernet is for doctors, lawyers and businessmen. Pinot Noir is for artists and people who enjoy life.' Thus did Jean-Marie Fourrier, pictured below with the specially designed spittoon-cum-desk he had specially made for visitors to his brand new cuverie, woo guests at a dinner featuring his red burgundies organised by Seckford Wines at Café Anglais in London late last month.

He represents the fifth generation of the Fourrier family at this domaine headquartered on the main RN74 through the sprawling village of Gevrey (just north west of the traffic lights). He explained that initially he didn't want to work with...