How to save 1,000 km of champagne muzzle wire

If everyone in Champagne used Pierre-Eric Jolly's three-legged, single-wired muselet, over 1,000 km of wire could be saved (based on their own saving of 4 km of wire in three months, tracked on their website), said the confident and loquacious Pierre-Eric Jolly as the patented cork restrainer was passed around for inspection. Like their maker and presenter, the René Jolly wines were confident and full flavoured, though for my slightly more austere taste not quite dry-tasting enough.

The diffidence of Maxime Barbichon could not, however, be said to have been reflected in his family's wines, which showed precision and...