Last month I took part in the Concorso Enologico Internazionale, or International Wine Competition in Verona, set up and run by Veronafiera, the organisers of Vinitaly. Vinitaly is that monster better known as the biggest wine fair in the world, and Veronafiera's principal cash cow. The competition takes the form of a blind wine tasting during which, in the course of five days, some 2,500 wines are tasted and scored by an international team of journalists and oenologists, to result in a meagre 20 gold, silver and bronze medals. This is why the organisers think theirs is the most selective...