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Indigo's mid-life solutions

Some of Ben Henshaw of Indigo Wines' special project bottles in early 2020

Some new, unusual, well-priced wines from around the globe are designed to solve a mid-life crisis.

Ben Henshaw, who founded London wine importer Indigo Wine, is 48 and has 12-year-old triplets. You might think he had a fairly busy life. He always seems to be signing up new suppliers, from all over the world.

But he came to see me in December with a whole load of bottles that he described as the fruits of his midlife crisis. They all represent special projects which, he assured me, were creative outlets for this. ‘I’m not a winemaker and I usually stop...