We all know that white wines made from the blessed Riesling grape can age superbly and that, pace premature oxidation, the finest white burgundies and white bordeaux, not to mention white Hermitage, can age superbly. But what about Italian whites? The general inclination is to drink them fairly young but Julia and I recently and coincidentally participated in vertical tastings of three different Italian whites that showed just how well they aged.
In the case of Allegrini’s Bolgheri adventure, Poggio al Tesoro, we could go back only as far as 2007 because that was the first vintage...