You know how it’s impossible to find anyone who admits to voting for George W Bush, and yet he won the election? I found exactly the same thing in Australia. Well not exactly the same thing. But what was very clear was that the market there is flooded with super-strength wines – indeed I sometimes found myself examining a wine label and saying “Oh good, this one’s only 14.5 per cent alcohol” – but not a single winemaker I met, with the possible exception of Chris Ringland of Three Rivers fame, declared themselves delighted to make super-size wines. And all...