The air was buzzing with esters, polyphenols, flavonoids, amino acids, sugars and acids at The Royal Society of Chemistry a couple of weeks ago. Not from test tubes, of course, and there were no Bunsen burners to be seen, but wine was flowing, and between the German wine producers and the clusters of enthusiastic tasters around their tables, there was definitely good chemistry. What was most encouraging was the diversity of ages in the room. I might still get the odd startled eyebrow when I mention 'German wine' to some of my friends, but Justerini's customers, young and old, are...