Good old Erni Loosen is drawing our attention to yet another effect of global warming. The good news is that Germany’s Riesling can now be relied upon to ripen fully. The bad news – in a way – is that in the best sites the grapes ripen so well that it is virtually impossible to produce wines in the traditional light Kabinett style. Such Loosen ‘grand cru’ vineyards as Bernkasteler Lay, Graacher Himmelreich, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Ürziger Würzgarten and Erdener Treppchen now produce only tiny quantities of Kabinett, while already their best-exposed site Erdener Prälat produces nothing below Auslese level of...