Whatever happened to Beaujolais? It was not that long ago that Beaujolais was the most famous wine in the world. Every November whole editions of newspapers seemed to be given over to the excitement of delivering Beaujolais Nouveau. Bars, restaurants and wine retailers around the world would excitedly announce that Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé. And less precocious bottlings of this light and quintessentially refreshing drink was de rigueur on wine lists for year-round consumption.
Today however, the Beaujolais region just north of Lyons is in self-avowed crisis. Ten million litres (enough to fill 13 million bottles) of basic Beaujolais...