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Le Clos St-Hilaire 1995–2006

Clos St Hilaire vineyard

To see in the New Year, a very special single-vineyard champagne.

Billecart-Salmon needs little introduction to most wine lovers. Yet I imagine that few will be overly familiar with their single-vineyard blanc de noirs cuvée, Le Clos St-Hilaire. I recently joined Mathieu Roland-Billecart for the first-ever vertical tasting of every vintage produced of this rare bottling. There have only been six releases thus far, and the 2006 (of which we also tasted a sneak preview) will be released next year.

Clos St-Hilaire (CSH*) is a one-hectare (2.5-acre) plot in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ in the Vallée de la Marne, adjacent to the...