Madeira ancient and modern

The heavenly rarities described towards the end of this article give a glimpse into the future of some of the younger wines listed first. A tiny sip (and, sadly, in this context, a subsequent spit) transport you to another time and place. Pure pleasure, mixed with extreme admiration.

These younger wines were tasted at the annual Big Fortified Tasting in London. The much older wines, mostly from the 19th century, were slowly and luxuriously tasted and savoured at a much smaller event a few weeks earlier organised by Patrick Grubb MW. Patrick, now in his 80s, said this would be his...