Many splendid Chardonnays

The California Wine Summit, an intense and rewarding week tasting some of the state's most impressive top wines, got off to a rip-roaring start with this Chardonnay tasting hosted by Hanzell in the Sonoma Valley (their winery, the location of the tasting, is shown here). The wines were chosen by Jon Bonné, wine editor of the San Francisco Chronicle and author of the just-published The New California Wine (not available until next month in the UK). It was Bonné who grouped the wines into flights by style and proposed the musical analogies that...