My week in Argentina last month, my first visit there in 11 years, was split between the regions of Salta and Mendoza. Here I report on the producers I visited in Mendoza, where I found much greater diversity than I was expecting and much greater emphasis on what was referred to as 'fruit diversity' rather than 'winemaking diversity'. In other words, an increasingly refined understanding of the vineyards and the complex interplay of climate, soils, elevation and exposition that gives the Mendocinian producers such a rich palette of flavours and styles. I admire the move towards fresher wines from earlier...