Mittnacht, Cuvée Gyotaku 2016 Alsace

From €14.80, £14.35, $17.99, 2,592 yen 

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Matching wine with sushi and sashimi should be pretty straightforward – it’s plain fish and white rice. Bring on the fresh, young, crisp, dry white. 

But Japanese food can often defy the simplicity of its appearance. Sushi and sashimi are no exceptions, with a combination of elements that individually would be enough to challenge the most adaptable wines. 

For a start, the rice is seasoned with both vinegar and sugar, giving it both sweetness and a light vinegary tang. Fish, particularly raw fish, can turn wine metallic in the mouth. The...