Montrachet 1999s (and a 2000)

There may be people to whom a tasting of 15 different Montrachets is nothing special, but I have yet to meet them. Even Dominique Lafon, producer of one of the finest and arguably Burgundy's brightest boy (though it's the boyish grin rather than his birth certificate that qualifies him for that epithet), had only once before taken part in anything like such a serious Montrachet comparison and that was 10 years ago and comprised fewer than half as many different examples. (I was however lucky enough to taste five 2000 Montrachets recently – see 2000 grands crus white burgundy.)...