More madeiras

These madeiras were tasted either in the lodges of the Madeira Wine Company (Blandy's/Cossart Gordon/Leacock/Miles), D'Oliveiras or Barbeito on the island of Madeira last week, or at the inaugural Big Fortified Tasting in London last month. They are mainly, but not exclusively, rather less ancient and rare than those tasted in The Great Island Madeira Tasting.

It is clear that Barbeito's style is the lightest, driest and most delicate. Blandy's wines tend to be richer and more vigorous and assertive. The D'Oliveiras wines I tasted, all pretty old, betray long ageing in cask. Borges and Justino's both produce some...