More Rieslings

Fully evolved and very pungently rich with a dry finish. Masses of concentration and I should think it might become just a bit too much and oily on the finish. Bu tits wonderfully explosive and pungent now. Off dry and a great foil for food. Very persistent and certainly full bodied. You'd never call it elegant but it would change lots of perceptions about Riesling. (JR) 13.5%

Only 220 half bottles produced from an incredibly steep slope. Slightly paler than the Scheurebe and aromas of apricot rather than the grapefruit. There is still, amazingly, a stoniness to the aroma, even with all that rich sweetness, adding complexity. Fabulously concentrated and rich but the acidity is so bright it almost tastes spicy on the tip of your tongue. Orange and apricot and barley sugar on the palate. So finely balanced the sweetness is easy but you have to take this wine very slowly. Pure, sweet pleasure without being in the least cloying thanks to the acidity. Endlessly long and great depth to the fruit. (JH) 7.5%

Intense aromatic purity of grapefruit and just a slight smokiness, which I find unexpected on a sweet wine. Viscous and so indulgent and luscious in its richness but edgy in its acidity and that same purity of grapefruit and lemon on the palate. Concentration and length are breathtaking. I think it should age well but the fruit is particularly delicious in youth. (JH) 7.5%

Smells riper and more apricot-laden than the Pius but still some  grapefruit pith aroma. Acidity is fantastic in counterbalancing the intense sweetness but the palate is so full of orange and honeyed fruit. Rich, intense, viscous and shows the quality of Rieslaner from a top site. Wonderful acidity and ripeness in tandem. I am not sure about the ageing potential of this variety so my drink dates are on the cautious side. (JH) 7.5%

Rieslaner/Scheurebe blend that sells for less than €20! Entry-level BA...  Rieslaner is, logically, a Riesling x Sylvaner cross.
Intense grapefruit notes that I associate with Scheurebe. Intensely sweet, honey and lemon all primary now but with a streak of acidity from start to finish. Amazing value for money with such intensity, purity and freshness. Creamy and viscous, caressing and so decadent. You could probably broach this sooner but better to enjoy the complexity of layers in a few years. VGV (JH) 7.5%

A similar smoky reductive aroma as on the Niersteiner H Kabinett, and a touch of wild herbs. Intensely fragrant and tight with citrus and wet rocks. Promising aroma underneath that of oily spice. Sweet honey and lemon on the palate, shot through with the vintage's fine acidity. A baby with a future. Rich but still refreshing. Very long. Wait. (JH) 7.5%

Featherlight but chock full of floral aromas. Definitely traditional style – and a very good value rendition thereof. Crunchy and broad on the palate and super refreshing on the finish.  But not at all heavy.  At the other end of the scale in structure from the Bürklin-Wolf QbA trocken. But it's probably best sipped without food. A telly wine? Or one to write a book with, as recommended by Hugh Johnson.  Not as intense on the finish as the top Piesporters but pretty good. (JR) 9.5%

From this admirable estate which has been certified biodynamic since 2005. Selective handpicking of healthy, ripe grapes followed by whole bunch pressing to ensure high must quality.For the most part fermented in stainless steel, but a small portion of the wine was fermented and matured in 2,500l traditional oak casks, to add extra complexity.
This is almost wonderful, and is certainly great value.I just think it is a little over the hill for perfection. Quite evolved nose. Verging on oily nose. Then really intense flavours and a broad floral array. Long with real grip. Masses of concentration for an Estate QbA. But I think it needs drinking. Pretty substantial! Bone dry grapefruit juice, if you can imagine that. Even a little heat on the finish. Excellent price considering the ambition but certainly not that fresh. (JR) 12.5%

From Erden. Grapes were hand picked on 22 Oct (the usual Kabinett harvesting time). Vinification was done the usual way, temperature controlled in old oak barrels. After four months in oak, the wine was racked transferred to stainless steel. RS 25.4g/l, TA 7.0 g/l, so a sort of feinherb Kabinett.
Screwcap. Apple-crisp on the nose. Light and vibrant with a streak of lime. Just off dry. Very easy to wallop without food but with sufficient structure to enjoy with a well-behaved light meal. I could imagine this with charcuterie or cold ham. Even goat's cheese. Very precise indeed. Neat finish. Impressive. And it couldn't come from any region other than the Mosel. No hurry to drink this. (JR) 10.5%

High-quality, long cork. Complex and perhaps slightly reductive aroma but it is actually quite broad too with a touch of oily spice – smells older than 2013. On the palate, a return to total fruit purity, the crisp acidity and the sweetness perfectly balanced already even though it seems a crime to taste/drink this now. Mouthwatering and luxuriously sweet at the same time. (JH) 7%

More delicate and purely citrus-driven than the Piesporter Goldtröpfchen just tasted, not as complex in aroma. There's fine lemon and lime and just a hint of orange zest – remarkable in such a difficult vintage. There's a mineral quality too but you hardly notice it behind the purity of the fruit though it becomes more obvious with time in the glass. Intensely pure citrus on the palate. How can anyone not love Riesling? Rich and full-fruited in the mouth and with the variety's acidity to keep it tense and fresh even though it is has a definite Kabinett sweetness on the finish. (JH)

8.5%

Beautifully pure Riesling aroma that combines surprisingly ripe citrus, stone fruit and as slightly oily minerality – like spicy stones, if you can forgive the metaphor. That minerality makes it almost savoury. This is one of those wines where I delay putting it in my mouth because the aroma is to intoxicating and complex even now. Stunning balance of really high acidity and ripe fruit flavours. Amazing intensity and length. The ripeness makes it delicious now but I imagine the acidity will allow it to age gracefully. (JH) 11.5%

Gosh, one doesn't expect a Mosel Beerenauslese at 12%! Yet it's pretty damn impressive...Gorgeously round, satiny, sweet Riesling that would be absolutely lovely with foie gras. Clean and confident. Smoky and pungent.  Very successful. Though I am feeling the sulphur a little. Very long. (JR) 12%

More herbal, more sweet, a little more syrupy than the Mosel Spatlese trocken. The balance here is a bit less convincing. Seems a bit too sweet or not sweet enough with a bitter finish. Just a bit too odd, sweet and pungent for me. Grapefruit syrup? Maybe it will reach a more satisfying stage? (JR)

13%

Mid gold. Really dense and winning with real muscle. Exciting! Great balance. Extraordinary extract. Smoke, no mirrors. Dense and long. Sleek and dramatic. Dry finish but with some richness beforehand.  Long. Admirable. (JR) 13%

Firm and smoky on the nose. Really quite angular and severe but in good balance. Racy and with a green streak. Not the most explosive and tense and just a little sour. Competent but I think you will have to wait for pleasure. There is just a hint of mousiness at the moment. Impressive persistence.  (JR) 12.5%

Fresh and a little spindly with some blackcurrant leaf notes. Marked acidity and grip but by no means tart. There is lots of extract here. For the first time with a Kuntz wine I have the same sort of tanning sensation as with some red wines. A green note for the moment. I'd hang on before opening this.  (JR) 12%

The late release of this single vineyard wine from Robert Hill Smith's family. 2008 vintage was a time of extremes. Winemaker Louisa Rose says, 'Although it was very dry going into the harvest period, the Eden Valley had received good winter rains and was looking healthy and fresh. As February progressed the weather remained dry, mild and stable and, importantly, the evenings were cool, all of which was perfect for maintaining the fine flavours and natural acids in Riesling.'
Very satsifying, deep-flavoured wine at the peak of its toasty powers. Less nervy than the Florita 2009 but really great for devotees of mature Riesling. Solid. Wouild be great with food. The merest hint of oiliness, but overall VGV. (JR)

12.5%

Say the Barrys, 'This micro batch super premium Riesling is the fruit of years of patience. We selected individual rows where the terra rossa and loam barely cover the deep limestone below. To guarantee the freshness of these precious grapes, we carefully picked batches to precisely fill our membrane press in the chill of night, and destemmed the bunches without crushing them. Only the finest 40% of the juice was used in this pristine, intense, beautifully citric Riesling. The story of Riesling in Australia is as old as the wine industry itself. Aficionados will remember the legendary dry white hock style wines from the 1960’s and 1970’s. The greatest Rieslings of that era came from the revered ‘Florita’ vineyard—a 75-acre block established one mile south of the Watervale township near Clare in the early 1960’s. Jim Barry’s sons purchased The Florita vineyard in 1986 (see this article). Leo Buring first registered The Florita trademark in 1946, and Mark, Peter and John were forced to wait, somewhat anxiously, until finally procuring it in 2004.' They give lots of stats but not RS.
Lovely evolution on the nose and fresh precision on the palate. This lime-flavoured,, very juicy wine will run and run. I should imagine it was pretty stern in extreme youth but it's already a delightful drink even though I'm sure it has a glorious future too. Bone dry finish. Subtle. (JR) 12%

The 2011 Eden Valley winter was warmer than usual with the mean minimum temperature being several degrees higher than average while the rainfall was consistently lower. These mild conditions allowed an even budburst with good shoot growth followed by a good cropping level at fruit set. Mild summer conditions and cool nights helped develop great flavours and sugar to acid balance. Slightly higher than average rainfall from November through to harvest in March aided flavour development and balance. A great Eden Valley Riesling vintage, say these two kings of Riesling.
This is the wine made from combining wines made by these two producers with grapes from the same vineyard. Lightly salty with development on the nose and a bit of chew on the end. Passion fruit flavours and a bone dry finish. Quite racy. Very clean and fresh. Just very slightly austere. Gives the impression that it will continue to develop. (JR) 12%

12.5%

Jim Barry purchased the Lodge Hill vineyard in 1977, as he was sure it would produce some of the best Riesling in Clare. Situated on the eastern ranges of the township of Clare, it is one of the highest vineyards in the Valley at an altitude of 480 metres, and is ideal for producing steely, minerally Rieslings, distinctive to the area. This vintage was treated to particular gentle pressing and juice treatment and has been released a little earlier than some years.
From a single slatey vineyard at 480m elevation. Dense nose that smells a little older than 15 months old.But it has real racy lightness and limey flavour. Really very good to drink already. Bone dry and satisfying. VGV (JR)

12.4%

Own roots – cane cuttings from Felton Road. Single cane, one bunch per shoot, 5,500 vines per hectare. Shoot and lateral thinned, and leaf plucked. Hand harvested on the 20th of April 2012. A good start to the season with healthy well balanced canes being laid on all three vineyard blocks with appropriate bud numbers, but growing then got off to a slow start with cooler than normal temperatures in late spring. The resulting bunches from the cooler spring were of average size but made up of very small berries which, regardless of clone and rootstock, ripened at much the same time after a very warm and dry autumn. March was the warmest March on record. Additionally there was not the normal large diurnal shift in autumn tending much more to range between 5 degrees over night to 25 degrees during the day. This seemed to be the catalyst for even ripening and carried on until harvest at Red Bank vineyard (HQ) on 19 April. 10g/l RS.
The nose is in the herbal/Great Southern spectrum. On the palate it tastes feinherb/off dry. A little chewy on the finish but certainly not uncomfortably phenolic. Pretty, vibrant, well balanced. Impressive persistence. Hint of lychees. I wonder whether the nose might develop into something a bit more interesting with time. (JR)

11.5%

From old gold mining country in Bannockburn. This is the drier of the two Rieslings made, with an RS of 5.6g/l and TA 8.1g/l. Screwcap – of course – and bought through the Merchant Vintners buying group that customarily supplies many members of The Bunch. The nose seems rather muted after Tanners' Mosel and Kaefferkopf. Quite austere acidity. Pretty hard work at this stage. Doesn't seem great value. It may soften but I think it might be better balanced with just a tad more residual sweetness. (JR) 12%

Lightly pungent nose with some perceptible ripeness on the front palate and a dry finish. Really lovely now. Quite intense but open already. Satin texture. But no death by alcohol. Lots of extract but not that much alc. I think it might go a bit petrolly with bottle age so drink young if you don't like this characteristic. Serve with liver parfait? GV (JR) 12.5%