A quiet tram whooshed me straight from the Hôtel de Ville lunch (I missed the symposium's lunch matching Sauternes with Chinese food at the Hôtel Mercure) to the welcome air-conditioned depths of Bordeaux's Cité Mondiale conference centre on Friday afternoon, too late, alas, to hear what Eduardo Chadwick of Viña Errázuriz in Chile had to say in the first afternoon session on 'Who serves the consumer best [better]? Families or corporations?'. Sylvie Cazes of the Cazes family wine enterprises (Ch Lynch Bages et al) must have made the same journey ahead of me because by the time I was...