I admit that although I have a great interest in Italy’s many indigenous varieties, until now I have turned a blind eye to Nero d’Avola. With some 18,000 ha (44,480 acres) planted, it occupies a substantial proportion of Sicily’s 112,000 ha (276,760 acres) and I have generally found its many bottled versions less than inspirational. It may be indigenous, but the predominant style is international: rich in extract, deep in colour, high in alcohol and often with lashings of oak or oak chips. There are exceptions to the rule, of course, notably in Cerasuolo di Vittoria where Nero d’Avola’s concentration...