Pichler-Krutzler & Hervé Murat

FX Pichler has long been an international star of the Wachau, Austria's most famous dry white wine region. He was a particular star when ripeness was all on these baked terraces on the north bank of the Danube and his Unendlich (unending) bottling is legendary. But since the 2007 vintage, his daughter Elisabeth Pichler and her husband Erich of the Südburgenland winemaking family Krutzler have been beginning to make waves of their own.

This is by no means to decry FXP's output, but there seems to me to be an extra freshness and drive to the PK wines, very much...