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Barbera, the most planted grape of Piemonte in north-west Italy, has enjoyed the most extraordinary rehabilitation in the last five or more years. Once dismissed as fit only for tart young table wine, it is now coaxed into expensive oak, put into fancy bottles and marketed as only a small notch down from the great Barolos of the region. This, of course, has been reflected in huge price rises. But how good are the wines? On the basis of a tasting of about 40 current examples I was left with the impression that this sort of wine is so new... |