There are signs that Nebbiolo has arrived in the league of the world’s most admired grape varieties, judging by the snobbery surrounding it. It is fed by the myth that, like Pinot Noir, it can produce outstanding wines only in its homeland, in this case the Langhe hills in Italy’s Piemonte. Often this is triggered by the search for similarities in overseas versions and the subsequent disappointment when they are different. But that is to miss the point completely: it is not about searching for similarities, but finding a unique expression of origin, wherever that may be.
Provided it is...